Review: Cruising Antarctica With HX Expeditions

We were zipping along in a Zodiac past snow-capped mountain peaks and towering icebergs when our driver suddenly cut the boat’s engine. It was a surprisingly sunny day in Antarctica and the lack of wind was creating a mirror-like effect on the surface of the water, projecting a near-perfect reflection of the scenery around us.

It was a once-in-a-lifetime moment for most of us — and our captain recognized that.

“We’re going to take three minutes of silence here,” he said, instructing us to put away our phones and cameras, encouraging us to close our eyes and simply listen.

At first, the silence seemed absolute. Then, slowly, as I tuned into the subtleties of the environment, I started to notice little things — the small snaps, crackles and pops of the ice,  the barely-there splashes of unseen marine life — and I suddenly felt wholly connected to the world around me.

Moments like this — instances of true connection with nature, complete escape from everyday life and reminders of the beauty of our planet — are what made traveling to Antarctica with HX Expeditions an unforgettable experience. Here’s a closer look at how the line immerses guests in this one-of-a-kind destination.

Highlights of Antarctica

As HX marks its 130th anniversary this year, the expedition line is also celebrating its most successful Antarctica season on record, sailing to the White Continent 34 times from October 2025 to March 2026 and earning five stars on 93% of its TripAdvisor reviews.

My husband and I joined HX’s Highlights of Antarctica itinerary in February, a 12-day journey that begins with a night in Buenos Aires before sailing roundtrip out of Ushuaia, Argentina.

If clients arrive in Buenos Aires early following an overnight flight, as we did, they have a prime opportunity to spend a day exploring — or rest up, if they prefer — before the next morning’s charter flight down to Ushuaia (HX reps are on hand to greet guests and explain the transfer process).

Once onboard, the journey requires two days of sailing over the Drake Passage (as well as two days back at the end); HX does not offer fly-cruises in an effort to operate as sustainably as possible. The staff fills this time with informational sessions on what to expect in Antarctica; introductions to the expedition team, onboard scientists and optional citizen-science projects; and educational presentations on the area’s history, wildlife and environment.

Following the crossing, the itinerary spends five full days along the Antarctic Peninsula. The exact sailing route and stops can vary as the experienced HX team makes real-time determinations based on weather conditions, which can change rapidly, and other factors. Marie Hernar, the HX expedition leader for our sailing, explained to me that there’s always a Plan A along with a handful of backup options, making flexibility the name of the game for both crew and guests.

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Weather permitting, most days feature two excursions: a Zodiac cruise for scenery viewing and wildlife spotting and a trip to land to visit penguin colonies and other points of interest. On our trip, this included an iceberg “graveyard,” or a shallow area where high numbers of icebergs get stuck, creating a striking scene.

From the Zodiacs, our luck seemed almost endless. We marveled at icebergs of every shape and size, each one a unique work of art that delighted me with myriad shades of blue and sculptural elements carved by the sea, wind and sun. We kept our eyes trained on floating ice to spot leopard, Weddell and crabeater seals sprawled out for a snooze, and listened for the telltale sound of a whale’s blow or the thunder-like crack of a calving glacier.

On land, the experiences were just as thrilling. Before bringing guests to shore (in small groups, to avoid overcrowding), the expedition team would set up a path where we could wander safely — and, importantly, with minimal disruption to any wildlife. This was especially essential during our visits to penguin colonies, where we were often surrounded by hundreds of the adorable creatures. I could have happily watched them go about their business for hours, waddling to and from shore, swimming gracefully through the waves, hopping from rock to rock and even sliding over the ice on their plump bellies.

These excursions are included in a cruiser’s fare, but HX also offers add-ons for more intrepid guests. My husband and I spent one morning on a “discovery kayak” (an easy-to-operate inflatable), thrilled when both a seal and a whale treated us to exciting, eye-level sightings. Other paid activities include guided sea kayaking (for advanced paddlers), snowshoeing and two options for a night of camping on land — either in a tent or a bivvy bag (a kind of covered sleeping bag). All are offered on a lottery system and only as conditions permit, so advise clients to keep a flexible mindset.

Onboard Fridtjof Nansen

Our cruise took place onboard Fridtjof Nansen, an ideal base for both adventure and comfort.

The ship’s design prioritizes outdoor viewing, from the open-air top level to restaurants with floor-to-ceiling windows — even the sauna looks out at the landscape.

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In fact, these features allowed for some of our most awe-inspiring moments. One day while we circled the exercise track on the uppermost deck, a humpback whale surfaced just off the side of the ship for a perfect top-down view. Early another morning, we congregated on deck for a transit of the Lemaire Channel, a stunningly photogenic passageway surrounded by staggering cliffs. Most happily, nearly every meal was interrupted by wildlife sightings of one kind or another.

Our suite’s balcony proved key to our animal-watching strategy, too. While getting ready for bed one evening, an announcement came over the loudspeaker: Whales had been sighted off the port side of the ship. We threw on our coats and beelined to the balcony, where we spent the better part of the next hour watching pods of whales blow bubbles, surface and dive, giggling with childlike glee. Another day, I planted a chair in front of the glass door as we sailed, jumping up with a shriek when I spotted a group of penguins lining up to dive one by one off a piece of floating ice.

Beyond the balcony, our modern and comfortable suite was the perfect place to reset between adventures. In addition to a sleek design aesthetic, it offered a small seating area, a desk and an included minibar. In the bathroom, heated floors were ideal for warming our cold feet post-excursion. (Given its space, outdoor access and other perks, I’d highly recommend clients book this accommodation option for its added value.)

Elsewhere on the ship, we chatted with scientists and expedition team members in the expansive Science Center, sipped craft cocktails in the cozy Explorer lounge or took a dip in the infinity pool and hot tubs. My husband put the sauna to excellent use; other wellness amenities include a state-of-the-art fitness center and a spa.

Fridtjof Nansen offers three dining options, starting with Aune, a mostly buffet-style venue that welcomes guests at all three daily meals, serving staple items and rotating specialties. Fredheim, meanwhile, was a go-to lunch spot, dishing out comfort foods such as burgers and sausages, plus salads, meat and fish entrees and more. The dinner menu here changed every few nights, at first featuring Filipino dishes (inspired by crew members’ family recipes, an especially nice touch), then switching to Indian fare and a South American spread.

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For suite guests, three meals per day are also included at Lindstrom, the ship’s most upscale eatery. (Other cruisers can book a meal here for a reasonable upcharge.) At breakfast, we ordered custom omelets, eggs Benedict, smoothies and more, while lunch and dinner both included rotating three-course menus of artfully presented dishes.

Best of all, we — like so many of our fellow guests — found easy camaraderie with the staff, who quickly started to recognize us, remember our preferences and even share sweet moments of connection. Whether helping us celebrate a birthday or sharing their favorite memories from past sailings, the amazing onboard crew reminded us early and often to savor every minute of our time onboard — a key mindset for any trip, but especially in a place as special as Antarctica.